27 May 2009

Kaohsiung, Southern belle

Kaohsiung is Taiwan`s second biggest city and about 2 hours from Taipei by fast train (Japanese Shinkansen technology). Economically it`s somewhat less relevant, though a major port in Taiwan. The city is rather large, but easy to navigate and has a more laid-back vibe than Taipei, despite (or because?) of the oppressing heat. I was staying in Kaohsiung most of the time as I was invited to stay with someone and ventured out from Kaohsiung as a base. So I got to know this city quite well.
Kaohsiung bustles with life at night. There are so many food stalls and a couple of night market areas where you can grab cheap and delicious food. There are also night markets with cheap clothes and accessories and other gimmicks which make a nice stroll after dinner. During the day there are fancier shopping options in the department stores and boutiques around town. Kaohsiung also features some of the famous Japanese department store chains like Mitsukoshi and trendy Japanese boutiques selling the latest fad from Harajuku and Co. So a large commercial city that is not that noticeable at first sight, but turns out to be charming with time. Lots of small coffee shops to relax, avenues with a lot of green and parks make it a leisurely spot too.
Really nice is the area in the North of the city where Kaohsiung University is located. I was quite blown away by the University`s location at the far end of the bay, overlooking the sea and with a nice beach right in front. My host who had studied there before found it less interesting, but coming from a country with no access to the sea that is a dream-come-true of a study location... Further up the road there is one of Kaohsiung`s major tourist attractions, the former British consulate (actually not a former consulate, but seat of a trading company). A red brick building with a temple next to it, steep steps leading up to its entrance.
Cijin island is a nice retreat from Kaohsiung`s bustle. It`s located right in front of the city, a long stretch of island that is connected to the harbour area by ferry and on the South end with a tunnel. We went for dinner on Cijin and the ride on the small, old, very cute ferry with flower paintings is really lovely. Dozens of fish and seafood restaurants line the main street. The available seafood is on display at the entrance of each place and all you need to do is point out the desired pieces and indicate how you would like to have them done. Very fresh and yummi! During the day Cijin has a long, palm tree lined stretch of beach and some temples and a lighthouse to visit.
There are two lakes in the vicinity of the city that make a quiet retreat as well. Lotus Pond and Chengching Lake. Lotus Pond`s Dragon and Tiger pagodas are a popular motive for postcards. There are two pagodas on stilts in the water, one of them has a dragon, one a tiger an oversize entrance figure (classical Chinese symbols). Shops next to the pond sell Taiwanese sweets (had to buy some "omiyage" for my housemates) and traditional Chinese theatre puppets and masks. Beautiful. Chengching Lake is a bit bigger, but does not feature and specific attractions around. The park announced the aquarium as one, but it was about the most old-fashioned, and sadly run-down aquarium we had ever seen. Fishing in the lake is forbidden, but you still see people sneaking around for fish.
Once I had learned how to ride motorbike, I really cruised around in Kaohsiung a lot. As this was my base for most of the trip and I had such a good time there I got really fond of it. Is it a must-see for other tourists? Well, at least Lonely Planet says too that it has developed into one in the recent years. And I`d say it`s worth a visit for sure.

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